Ultimate 10 days in Turkey
Why go?
Turkey (Turkiye) is unusual in that it straddles two continents, Europe and Asia. The scenery and attractions across the country vary drastically, from busy Istanbul to the otherworldly valleys of Cappadocia and the classic Mediterranean coast. This ultimate itinerary includes all the famous attractions on the bucket list for Turkey, as well as some little-known and off-the-beaten track experiences that shouldn’t be missed, all tied up in a 10-day loop!
Need to know
Money: The currency is the Turkish Lira. Inflation has meant prices have risen dramatically recently, so be prepared that some information may be out of date. Where I have included prices in this itinerary, they are correct as of May 2023.
Safety: We experienced no problems during our stay, but on some public holidays (May 1st) there are areas to avoid in Istanbul due to potential demonstrations (eg Taksim square).
Driving: Hire a car through a reputable company, making sure you have all the information. Road conditions are generally good and traffic is low outside of cities. However, I wouldn’t recommend trying to drive in Istanbul since you could probably walk faster! Other drivers are also something to watch out for as it appears traffic rules aren’t always followed (no indicating, right of way, etc).
Water: In theory, the tap water is safe to drink. However, I heard it is heavily chlorinated and that the locals avoid it so we bought bottled water throughout our trip.
Religion: When visiting mosques, you need to be mindful of the modest dress code (loose fitting clothing covering shoulders and knees (no tight clothes, shorts or sleeveless tops)). Women should also wear a scarf to cover their head – I recommend bringing one if you can, since the ones bought outside the mosque looked small and papery.
Summary
- Blue Mosque
- Grand Bazaar
- Spice Bazaar
- Aya Sofya (Hagia Sofia)
- Topkapi Palace
- Bosphorus Cruise
- Basilica Cistern
- Galeta Tower
- Travel to Cappadocia
Days 1-3 Istanbul
Why go?
Istanbul is a bustling city centred around the famous Bosphorus Strait, the waterway between Europe and Asia. It has a long and dramatic history, founded as Byzantium originally, before becoming known as Constantinople and finally Istanbul. It has Greek, Roman, and Ottoman influences, making it a “European Capital of Culture” and a UNESCO world heritage site. This understandably attracts many tourists eager to witness famous sites such as Aya Sofya (Hagia Sofia Mosque) and the Grand Bazaar Market.
Need to know
The Sultanahmet neighbourhood in the district of Fatih is a good place to be based to be close to major attractions including the Blue Mosque, Aya Sofya, and Topkapi Palace.
The main airport (IST) is situated approximately 55 km outside of the city. First of all – the airport is ginormous. Taxiing in the plane after landing can be around 20 minutes, then navigating the airport itself (and finding passport control) can take an additional half hour or more, and that’s without collecting hold luggage. Finally, there are multiple exits which can be disorientating if you don’t know where you’re going, or even if you do. However, once you’re out there are several ways to get from the airport to the city – by train, bus, or car/taxi. Currently, there isn’t an easy train option, but they are in the process of extending a new line which will make it much better! By taxi, the journey takes about an hour to Sultanahmet (in theory). However, traffic can be very bad – think stand-still traffic where getting out and walking is actually faster (we did this!). I would, however, recommend a taxi, and booking it in advance or through your hotel if possible so you know where to meet your driver, which will help with navigating the airport. Make sure to account for all these factors when planning the taxi pickup, or your afternoon’s activities once in Istanbul.
Unsurprisingly, Istanbul city centre itself is very busy. Expect long queues for tourist sites if you’re visiting in peak season – we visited at the start of peak season (April/May) and still queued for 30-60 minutes for major sites, even at 09:00. This means that you should be flexible with your itinerary and account for queue/travel times when considering how much you can fit into your day. Potentially buying skip-the-line tickets where applicable could help with this.
Museum card: I would recommend buying the Turkey Museum Pass if you’re following this itinerary or plan to view a lot of the major sites. Unfortunately, I didn’t realise (whilst doing my preliminary research for this trip) that you can buy this pass to cover the whole of Turkey, and not just Istanbul. It is valid for 15 days and costs 2,500 TL (Turkish Lira) (correct as of May 2023) which will most likely save you money. I’ll include which attractions on my itinerary are covered by this pass.
Day 1: Travel to Istanbul and afternoon sightseeing
I planned this itinerary around a morning flight which meant we arrived at our hotel in the early afternoon, so this itinerary begins after lunch.
The Blue Mosque
Why go?
This still-functioning mosque is probably my favourite in Istanbul. The interior is covered in blue-painted tiles, which is lit up in the evening, giving the mosque its name (although its official name is the Sultan Ahmed Mosque).
Need to know
It is accessible from the middle of Sultanahmet Square, near to Aya Sofya. Note that you should wear respectful clothes as mentioned above, with a head covering if you’re a woman. You will also need to remove your shoes as you enter, which sometimes you can carry but in some places shoes are forbidden entirely and will need to be placed in a wooden “locker” (not locked).
Opening times: 08:30-18:30, but closed for prayer times, which may vary slightly each day. The mosque closes an hour prior to prayer time, and opens half an hour after.
Cost: As it is a mosque, it is free to enter.
The Grand Bazaar
Why go?
This market is one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world. Istanbul’s location meant that this market was originally a trade centre between continents. In my opinion, it is a more refined market than I was expecting – each distinct shop is neat with similar touristy products. It is bright and colourful, but the tourism taints it somewhat, although that is understandable with its thousands of daily visitors.
Need to know
Some shops, especially those selling the famous beautiful lamps, have “no photo” signs up, so be aware when you’re taking pictures in the market.
Opening times: Monday – Saturday 08:30-19:00 (closed Sundays). It is open on public holidays but closed on religious holidays.
Cost: Entry is free.
The Spice Bazaar
Why go?
This is a much smaller but also famous covered market, also known as the Egyptian Bazaar. If you liked the Grand Bazaar and would like some more browsing then this market is essentially an extension.
Need to know
Opening times: Daily 08:00-19:30.
Cost: Entry is free
Day 2 – Istanbul sightseeing
Aya Sofya (Hagia Sofia)
Why go?
Possibly the most famous of Istanbul’s attractions, this mosque is worth queuing to see the hype. Originally a church, it was converted into a mosque by the Ottomans before enjoying a brief stint as a museum, then back to a mosque.
Need to know
Unsurprisingly, this mosque is extremely popular. If you arrive at opening time you will still need to queue half an hour down the street.
Opening times: Daily, 09:00-22:00. As it is a working mosque, it is closed to tourists at prayer times throughout the day.
Cost: As it is a mosque, entry is free.
Topkapi Palace
Why go?
This large palace (now museum) was originally the main residence of the sultans from the Ottoman Empire (until Dolmabahce Palace was constructed). There are four pretty main courtyards, with various rooms containing information about Istanbul’s history. Furthermore, you can also enter the beautifully tiled Harem.
Need to know
I’d recommend seeing this place straight after Aya Sofya which should beat the main rush of tourists. After entering through the usual bag/person screening metal detectors you will be in a pre-Palace courtyard-style park. On the right at the end of this walkway, you can buy tickets for the Palace (if you haven’t already) and then continue through the main gate. Prior to the manned ticket booths are machines where you can purchase tickets using card only. I recommend this as when I visited there was no queue here, but quickly the manned booths were busy. You will have the option of buying a ticket for the Palace alone or with a visit to the Harem (which costs extra). If you’d like to see the Harem, I’d recommend buying the combo ticket here as otherwise you will have to buy it separately when you’re in the Palace and it is more expensive. Note that the Harem is undergoing some renovation currently so not all areas are open (May 2023).
There is one section in the museum where respectful clothing/head scarf for women should be worn, although if you don’t have this then you can skip it.
Audio guides: The audio guide is free with your ticket price, but note that the queue for the audio guides can be longer than the queue for tickets. With this in mind, you can decide whether you’d like to get one or not. The audio guide booth is slightly further on on the right before the main entrance, after you’ve bought your ticket. You will need to leave ID (driving licence/passport) as a deposit for the guide. When returning the guide, skip the queue and go to the right-hand side windows to talk to someone (it is not well signposted, or even signposted at all that you can do this).
Cost: The Palace ticket costs TL 500 (per adult), and the combo ticket (with Harem included) is TL 650. However, if you chose to buy the Harem ticket separately once you’re inside the Palace, it is TL 225. Note that Topkapi is also included in the Turkey Museum Pass.
Opening times: Sunday-Monday 09:00-18:00 (closed Tuesdays).
Bosphorus Cruise
Why go?
A Bosphorus cruise is always listed as one of the things to do in Istanbul. The naturally occurring waterway marks the boundary between Europe and Asia and links two seas. Many boat trips offer varying length trips to explore this strait, with views of Istanbul from both continents. See how many Turkish flags you can count and look out for the jellyfish swarms in the water of the strait!
Need to know
As mentioned, there are many companies and tour groups offering this trip online and in Istanbul itself, often for around 30-40 euros, if not higher. However, there is a much cheaper and little-known alternative which is just as good, if not better. Sehir Hatlari is a company that runs general ferries to various ports around the area, but also runs two daily “cruises” from its main port (Eminonu). I’d recommend the Short Bosphorus Tour, which departs daily at approximately 14:00, although there is a “Long Bosphorus Tour” which also includes lunch.
The ticket office is around the left side of Sehir Hatlari’s building at Eminonu (closer to the edge of the port). The large building says “Bosphorus Short Tour” on the front but doesn’t seem to have any signage for the ticket office so it is not obvious (and it is a very busy area so can be confusing). However, when you go round to the left there is a small sign showing prices above the (potentially closed) ticket office so you know that you have found it. The ticket office opens approx. 30 minutes before departure so that you can buy tickets, but I’d recommend you go earlier as a queue forms from around 20-30 minutes before the ticket office opens. The ticket costs 32 TL per person, around 20 times cheaper than the overpriced online tours!
After you have bought the ticket, the entrance to their waiting room is to the immediate left of the ticket office, behind large doors (you may have to queue here too). When those doors are open everyone packs into the waiting room, standing at the doors to the port. Inevitably the tour is late, so prepare for a half hour standing around in a packed room. People are also extremely keen to run to the boat when doors are released so prepare for a rush, although in my opinion it is unnecessary since there are many seats on the top deck and depending on the weather, it can be cold up there anyway! However, if you do want a seat on top, aim for the left-hand side as the boat goes closer to the left-hand side coast (Europe) on the way up the strait, and returns closer to the right-hand-side coast (Asia). The boat stops on the Asian side (Uskudar) and further up the European side (Ortakoy) on the way out/back so depending where you are/want to be after the tour, you could join or leave at these locations too.
The trip is approximately 2-2.5 hours in length, which is more than enough time since honestly the scenery doesn’t change much, but it is nevertheless an enjoyable trip. If you’re doing this trip I’d recommend having lunch beforehand (there are several restaurants nearby to Eminonu), although there is also a small snack/coffee bar on the boat if you’re in need of some refreshments during the cruise!
If you wanted to go down the route of the other tours, be sure to check all the details and most importantly reviews prior to your trip as I have heard of some scams going on with some providers (eg giving out drinks/snacks “for free” then demanding money).
Day 3 – Istanbul sightseeing and travel to Cappadocia
Basilica Cistern
Why go?
There are several hundred ancient cisterns below Istanbul, but this one is the largest – it is a huge chamber. In its past it provided a water filtration system for the Great Palace of Constantinople, and later for Topkapi Palace. It was originally built by the Byzantines but has been renovated several times since, the most recently in 2017-2022. There are walkways, coloured lights reflected off the water, and statues to add to the atmosphere. Look out for the giant stone medusa head, upside-down at the base of a column if you walk to the far end after descending the entrance steps.
Need to know
Like everywhere else in Istanbul, this place is popular and large queues will form before it’s even open. Be aware when planning this into your day and try to arrive early. You can buy “skip-the-line” tickets in advance however, if you would prefer.
Opening times: Daily, 09:00-19:00
Cost: 300 TL per adult.
Galeta Tower
Why go?
In all honesty, I didn’t climb the famous Galeta tower. However, I visited it all the same. It was originally built as a watchtower during the Byzantine period, but is now a museum with hundreds of daily visitors climbing to see views across sprawling Istanbul.
Need to know
Guess what, this is a popular attraction and therefore comes with a not-so-attractive long queue. However, the surrounding neighbourhood (Beyoglu district) is full of small streets, restaurants and shops to explore too so you can spend a decent time investigating this area as well as viewing/climbing the tower. I’d recommend having lunch around here too.
Opening times: Daily, 08:30-22:00.
Cost: 350 TL per adult. It’s also included in the Turkey Museum Pass.
Flight to Cappadocia
There are two main airports serving the region known as Cappadocia. These are Nevsehir Kapadokya Airport (NAV) and Kayseri Erkilet Airport (ASR). Depending on times and schedules, you could choose either as both are regularly served by Istanbul airport.
For this itinerary, I chose Kayseri airport (via Turkish Airlines) as it also had direct flights to Antalya (the destination after Cappadocia, this time via SunExpress), and I wanted to rent a car in Cappadocia (easier to pick up and return the car to the same airport). However, Nevsehir airport is physically closer to the “main” Cappadocian town of Goreme (43 km, compared to 81 km from Kayseri). Both airports have taxi services linking them to Goreme and other towns, however, if renting a car doesn’t appeal.
Be sure to arrive at (the correct!) Istanbul airport (probably the newer main airport, IST) for departure with enough time, and by that I mean prepare for a long slow taxi drive from the city centre depending on traffic.
Days 4-6 Cappadocia
Why go?
No doubt if you’ve been considering a trip to Turkey, then photos from the amazing scenery of Cappadocia will have crossed your screens. Made especially famous by Instagram, the rock formations in this region are incredible and otherworldly, and well worth a visit! There are a number of valleys filled with variously shaped natural formations and cute cave-churches carved into the rock, as well as other interesting sites nearby such as underground cities that once housed thousands of people. Hundreds of hot air balloons fill the skies at dawn, and embarking on one of these trips is considered a must-do, but Cappadocia is much more than that in my opinion – sticking to the ground to explore the region on foot or by mountain bike away from the hordes of people is perhaps even better.
Need to know
Goreme is the most popular and well-known town in Cappadocia, and I recommend staying here as it is a central and useful base for exploring the region, with a lot of choice of hotels and restaurants. You will likely see online mentions of staying the night in authentic “cave hotels”, but be aware that perhaps every hotel incorporates the word “cave” into their name in some aspect and they are not all in fact, actually caves! If that isn’t a problem then that is fine, and no doubt you can find cheaper rooms if they don’t mention cave rooms, but if a cave is what you’re after then do your research and be prepared to spend a little more. Goreme hotels in general are expensive though, but they can get away with it due to demand! If you’d like to save money, consider staying in a different village which will be just as good for accessing the main sights. Bear in mind the parking situation in these small towns can be difficult – we were luckily fine (May 2023, 4 nights), but in peak season you may be parking further than ideal from your hotel.
Kayseri airport and renting a car
Kayseri is a very small airport. There are not many rent-a-car companies on site – some will pick you up and drive you to their offsite office (and drive you back for your flight after car drop-off). Be careful when choosing which company to use – if you can, go for well known rental companies with clear information about everything you’re getting, and the deposit/insurance situation. I’d recommend this even if they are more expensive, as peace of mind is extremely valuable when you’re on holiday! Many sites online act as third parties that you book through, which is fine, but be sure to check the reviews and policies of the actual company you’ll be receiving the car from. Screenshot and print all the information you need. I’d also recommend buying separate car excess insurance in advance which can save you on the overpriced insurance some companies offer/pressure you to buy. We personally had a bad experience booking through a third party website – the rental company name did not match that we thought we’d booked, the company themselves insisted our car would get deliberately scratched by people who were paid to do so (by who?) in Goreme and the resulting paperwork from this could cause us to miss our flight if we didn’t buy their insurance, and finally their card machine was blocked from potentially dodgy transactions but they instead blamed our card (despite calling our bank and no problems). This was actually a blessing in disguise as eventually we moved to a different local company which thankfully ended up being great and very helpful, even at the late hour (I recommend “Autoland rent a car”, if you did want a smaller company).
Tours
Cappadocia has its tourism very defined and sorted. It is unusual to “do it yourself” but I personally think that is the best way of experiencing the area and avoiding the busy tourist routes whilst still doing everything the place has to offer! However, if you prefer your day trips to be more organised, then you definitely won’t be short of options. Online and at your hotel you will most likely be presented with hot air balloon tours and the “red”/”green” tours of Cappadocia. These tours combine the most famous attractions within a day, complete with transport between them and also lunch. They are best if you don’t have long in Cappadocia, or perhaps don’t have your own transport. Look around and research the different companies (especially reading reviews) so you know exactly what’s included with these tours prior to booking, if you choose this option. However, my itinerary includes all the main sights on your own schedule, if that is preferable.
Day 4 – Hiking in Cappadocia (Goreme – Pigeon Valley – Uchisar Castle – Love Valley – Cavusin – Rose I/II valleys – Red Valley – Goreme day loop)
Why go?
Hiking is, in my opinion, a great way to see the local area away from tourists. You can go at your own pace, exploring and finding hidden gems.
Need to know
This loop will likely take all day – be prepared with everything you may need: money, phone, power bank chargers, suncream, waterproofs/additional warm clothing (weather dependent, but it is better to be prepared!), water, snacks, first aid kit, and maybe a headtorch just in case. Wear good hiking boots.
I had read prior to this trip that trails markings and signs are virtually non-existent and I can confirm this is true. There are some large stone markers with the Turkish names for the valleys, some of which have been graffitied and are difficult to read but generally I’d ignore what the graffiti says and go off the original stone markers. See below for a table with the English names/nicknames of the most popular valleys, compared to the Turkish names.
English name | Turkish name |
Pigeon Valley | Guvercinlik Vadisi |
Love Valley | Asiklar Vadisi |
Rose Valley I/II | Gulludere Vadisi I/II |
Red Valley | Kizil Vadisi |
Sword Valley | Kiliclar Vadisi |
Imagination Valley | Devrent Vadisi |
Bonus useful Turkish word: church = kilise
Note also that there are two “Rose” valleys – something which took us a long time to grasp originally but would’ve made a lot more sense if we’d known from the start! I’d argue there are maybe even three.
Finally, in this case Google Maps unfortunately offers next to no help with navigation. The trails are everywhere, not all marked on Google Maps or visible from satellite view, not to mention sometimes loss of signal can make it confusing to see where you actually are. If you have Strava, the maps can show trails a little better but they don’t show your live location which is an issue. In conclusion – read up all you can but be prepared for detours and potential frustration! I have done my best to explain the route and include pictures but we ourselves got lost in the making of this hike so please take it with a pinch of salt and be prepared for a long time outdoors with all the supplies you need.
Because writing this route description ended up so long, I’ve put it on another page here.
Day 5 – Mountain biking in Cappadocia
Why go?
Mountain biking is a great way to get around in Cappadocia, with smooth meandering paths through most of the valleys at different levels of difficulty. I think it will become much more popular in the future because of this.
Need to know
We rented bikes from Middle Earth Goreme, which although are expensive provided good bikes, helmets, tools/equipment in case of puncture etc, and finally, valuable advice on route planning. They also run mountain biking tours where they handle the logistics of route planning, at a variety of difficulty levels, if that is preferable to going it alone!
As with hiking, the directions or signs for various valleys and towns is not great in Cappadocia. Therefore, I’d recommend planning your route beforehand. We know first-hand the difficulty of going the wrong way and having to carry bikes up an extremely narrow canyon featuring thorny bushes, and let me tell you that it is really exhausting and you end up looking like you have lost a fight with a cat.
However, those smooth downhill rides really make this a special activity to do.
Below I’ve written a brief overview of the route/plan we had for mountain biking, but please take with a pinch of salt as we took several wrong turnings! Note it is similar to our hiking route described above, but a very different experience!
Goreme – Uchisar – Pigeon Valley
Setting off from Middle Earth, Goreme, we first took the road towards Uchisar (Adnan Menderes Cd). Note this is a fairly busy road and also uphill, so be prepared! After arriving in Uchisar, continue cycling through on the same road until you reach Goreme Onyx (shop/museum). Opposite is a viewpoint/trailhead for Pigeon Valley, which is our first downhill!
Uchisar – Love Valley – Cavusin
Near the bottom of the trail head back up towards Uchisar but towards Love Valley. It is difficult to get down into Love Valley (will need to get off and slip down with the bike!) but once you’re in it’s a fairly easy path through to the famous formations. Around this area are several routes and slopes if you wanted to play around for a bit! Afterwards, take the road out towards Cavusin where you can stop for lunch. I’d recommend a quick visit of St John the Baptists church (free) if you have time.
Cavusin – Kaya Camping
From Cavusin head towards Red Valley/the wide open area marked “Red Valley ATV” on Google Maps. You’re aiming ultimately for “Kaya Camping Caravaning” up on the top, but beware as it is here we took a wrong turning and ended up canyon climbing through Sword Valley (Kiliclar Vadisi).
Kaya Camping – Meskendir Valley – Rose Valley II
Once at “Kaya Camping”, turn off and ride down the lovely Meskendir Valley, which has good winding paths through the trees and some wide cave tunnels. This valley turns into the “Kapadokya Yuruyus Yolu” road, a small dusty track joined further down by the end of the Red Valley and Rose Valleys. There are large stone signs marking the way to Rose Valley II (Gulludere). Even though they have been graffitied, trust the stone signs and turn off here. If you reach a small cabin/stables on the road, you have gone past it.
Rose Valley II – Panoramic Viewpoint – bute mountaintop!
Going up Rose Valley II is quite straightforward and not too bad originally(!). If you haven’t already had the chance, I highly recommend taking a break at Kolonlu rock church, one of the best in the area. After the church the path gets steeper and you will potentially have to push the bikes for some of the rest of the way up to the top of Rose Valley, where the Panoramic Viewpoint is located. From here, you can continue right up to the bute (the huge flat-topped mountain). You will need to push the bikes up here, but the top is flat and cyclable and you’ll be rewarded with incredible views. Arguably, you won’t need a hot air balloon ride after this!
Bute mountaintop – Cavusin – Goreme
When you’ve had your fill of the view, cycle round the edge of the bute in a northern direction (with the valley views to your left) and you’ll come down the other side (trail can be seen on Google Maps, marked “Cinnes Vadisi”), which ends in a dirt track coming out at the edge of Cavusin (near “Cavusin Kilisesi”, as marked on Google Maps). From here, it’s a simple ride back along the main road between Goreme and Cavusin (Goreme Yolu). Most of this has pavement to ride on.
Day 6 – Cappadocia Road trip
Why go?
By now you should’ve had your fill of exploring the various beautiful valleys close to Goreme. However, there are other amazing sights and experiences which are best visited by car. Many of these are covered by the “red” or “green” Cappadoica tour routes you’ll no doubt see advertised everywhere, but in my opinion doing it yourself on your own timeline is much more preferable.
Need to know
Driving is straightforward in Cappadocia. There is parking for all the sights I mention below. Sometimes you will have to pay a small parking fee, or if you park far enough away you won’t have to. Often this involves a man coming up to you once parked and you pay there and then – no ticket required. Its best to have cash on you for this.
Derinkuyu Underground City
Why go?
This huge underground city has many small passageways to explore. In the past, it is said the city housed up to 20,000 people. It’s an incredible place to explore and experience!
Need to know
The underground city is located in the town of Derinkuyu, located a straightforward 40-minute drive from Goreme. Parking is quite well signposted – you’ll have to pay a small fee to a man who will likely come up to you after you’ve got out the car.
The cost is 250 TL per adult, or it is also included in the Turkey Museum Pass.
Opening times: 08:00-18:15, Mon-Sun
Kaymakli Underground City
Why go?
Although another underground city, Kaymakli is quite different from Derinkuyu and since it is enroute back to Goreme you may as well stop off to experience it. It is much more refined than Derinkuyu, with a larger and newer visitor centre, and, even better, a one-way route marked through the underground city to help you make the most of it without coming head-first into other groups!
Need to know
Kaymakli is approximately 10 minutes’ drive from Derinkuyu, back towards Goreme. Parking is a large open lot somewhat confusingly located on Google Maps, so when you get close enough I recommend following the brown tourist signposts instead of Google. Once again, a car parking man will ask a small fee of you.
The entry cost for Kaymakli is 250 TL per adult, or it is also included in the Turkey Museum Pass.
Opening times: 08:00-19:00, Mon-Sun.
Lunch (Goreme)
There are some cafes/restaurants located around the carpark at Kaymakli underground city, but we headed back to Goreme for lunch due to more choice.
Pasabag Valley
Why go?
Also known as the Monks Valley, this is a small “valley” housing more unique rock formations and cave churches. It used to be free to explore as with the other valleys, but recently they have set it up as a tourist site with parking, entrance gates, and accompanying entrance fee.
Need to know
The parking is approximately 10 minutes drive from Goreme and is signposted fairly well.
The ticket also includes access to Zelve Open Air Museum, so be sure to hold onto it. It costs 150 TL for an adult. It is included in the Turkey Museum Pass.
In my honest opinion it in not necessarily worth visiting this place if you have already explored all of what the other (free) valleys have to offer, but the fact that it is on the same ticket as Zelve Open Air Museum means you may as well go. You will probably only need a half hour or so, however, as the site is small.
Opening times: 08:00-19:00 during high season.
Zelve Open Air Museum
Why go?
This is a great open air museum, and in my opinion far superior to the more famous Goreme Open Air Museum. Zelve is quieter since it is further out, but the site is large, with 3 main valleys and a wealth of rock caves to see and explore. There is even a rock tunnel between two of the valleys, but unfortunately it was closed when we visited (May 2023).
Need to know
It is less than a 5-minute drive from Pasabag Valley. There is a fairly large car park with a fee, but if you park along the road outside of the paid area it is free.
I’d recommend “budgeting” at least an hour here, as it is a large site with a fair bit of walking between the small valleys.
The ticket is the same as that for Pasabag Valley, or you can buy it separately here for 150 TL. As mentioned above, it is included in the Turkey Museum Pass.
Opening times: 08:00-17:30, Mon-Sun.
Devrent (imagination) Valley
Why go?
This is yet another small valley extremely popular with the tourist tours. You’ll know when you’ve reached it from the haphazard parking on the edge of the road. There’s also a bus stop for the tourist bus and some pop-up stalls. The valley has several famous formations, most notably one in the shape of a camel which is fairly obvious and close to the road. It’s also worth taking some time out to climb up through the formations and get a great view down too.
Need to know
It is approximately 8 minutes’ drive from Zelve Open Air Museum. You can park on the edge of the road but be careful with blockages from buses and traffic.
You’ll need up to half an hour here, depending how much you’d like to explore. If just finding the “camel”, you can move on in 5 minutes!
It is free to explore this site.
Goreme Open Air Museum
Why go?
As mentioned above, if you had to choose just one Open Air Museum, then I would recommend Zelve over Goreme. However, Goreme Open Air Museum is mentioned everywhere as one of the top sites to visit, so I went to see what the hype is about. It is a small site but the pathways are paved and more accessible generally than Zelve. There are some great frescoes and rock churches here too.
Need to know
Goreme Open Air Museum is approximately 25 minutes’ drive from Devrent Valley.
The car park, while large, is situated downhill of the site. Its approximately 5-10 minutes’ walk uphill once parked. There is also the standard Turkish parking payment system of a man coming up to you once parked.
The ticket is quite expensive for what it is, in my opinion, at 300 TL per adult. This does not include entry to perhaps the most famous attraction at the site, which is the Dark Church. Whilst these frescoes are indeed beautiful, the extra ticket for this (which you have to buy separately once inside the main open air museum), is another 100 TL.
You aren’t allowed to take photos of the frescoes/inside the rock churches, and there are staff on hand to enforce this. This includes the Dark Church.
Opening times: 08:00-17:00 Mon-Sun (last ticket sales 16:15). If you think you won’t have time for this and you’d like to go, consider swapping it out for Zelve as unless you really enjoy Open Air Museums there is probably no need to see both.
Hot air balloons
Why go?
Is it a trip to Cappadocia if you haven’t made some effort to at least see the hot air balloons? No doubt you will have seen many many posters and advertisements for a ride, but in my opinion splashing that cash is unnecessary if you’ve already seen Cappadocia’s wonders from the ground. However, looking up from the ground at the seemingly hundreds of balloons is still worth the early wake up call.
Need to know
The balloons typically fly at dawn, so depending on whether you can view them from your hotel terrace or want to make your way to some other viewpoint (which may charge – so beware), make sure you are up before dawn! We saw the balloons on our last day when we had to get up early for our flight anyway so it wasn’t too difficult.
Days 7-10 Road trip
Day 7 – Cirali
Why go?
This is your opportunity to spend some time at the beautiful beaches of the Mediterranean. Cirali is a small, peaceful seaside village close to the major city of Antalya, but without loads of people. As well as the long sandy beach, there are some amazing sites well worth a visit. One is the ancient city of Olympus, practically on the beach, and another is the mysterious eternal flames a short hike away, which gave rise to the legend of the mythical fire-breathing chimeras.
Need to know
Flying from Cappadocia
Most of the time (ie, out of high season), there are no direct flights from the Cappadocian airports to Antalya (you must fly via Istanbul). However, I’d recommend checking both Cappadocian airports as some have different routes. We managed to get a flight direct from Kayseri to Antalya, which worked perfectly. The flight was around 1h 15.
Hiring a car
This section of the itinerary involves a road trip from Antalya to Izmir. When hiring a car, ensure you choose a reputable and well-known company. It is worth paying extra for peace of mind and no hidden issues. Note that most hire companies charge a “one-way” fee when you pick-up and drop-off the hire car in different locations. For example, the cost of the hire car for us was only approx. 50 euros, but the one-way fee was an additional 150 euros. However, it is worth it for the ease of travelling around and at your own pace. Plus, the pick-up process was much easier at Antalya than Cappadocia.
Cirali is a fairly straightforward 1.5 hour drive from Antalya Airport. It is a small village but has quite a range of restaurants and small shops to supply you with what you need.
Olympus Ancient City Ruins
Why go?
These are some great ruins, over a large and beautiful site. A river runs through from the mountains to the sea, and while the ruins are literally overgrown in some places, it feels like you are authentically exploring them. There has been a little bit of renovation in places but generally the information signs aren’t great. However, there’s a mystical feel to the place. There’s also a small windy path that climbs to a small rocky peak from where you can survey the beach and the whole site (possibly not an official part of the site as you need sturdy shoes and to be careful climbing over rocks/trees etc!).
Need to know
It is situated a long way down the beach from the main small village. The walk is probably 20-30 minutes. You can either walk along the sand or small back roads lead almost to the entrance, and from there you can walk the last 100 m on the sand.
A ticket costs 180 TL per adult. It is included in the Turkey Museum Pass.
Opening hours: 08:00-19:00 Mon-Sun.
The eternal flames of Mount Chimera
Why go?
This is truly an off-the-beaten-path gem. If the masses knew about it, I have no doubt it would be commercialised and made into a visitor centre with a fee and large tour buses. As it is, it is a magical place in the mountains covered with beautiful pine forests. The rocky base of these mountains has cracks through which natural gas escapes in a constant steady steam. This then ignites upon contact with air and therefore burns as flickering yellow-blue flames without stopping. If one area is deprived of oxygen, the flame simply starts up elsewhere through the cracks. Some of the rocks are in hollows like natural fire pits when camping – indeed, we saw a group with a guitar hanging out like in the movies. Apparently, you can also buy marshmellows in the village to toast, if you’d like a rewarding snack once you get there. It is really worth the short hike up.
Need to know
I’ve seen some recommendations to visit this site at night, to fully be able to see the flames against the black backdrop of darkness. However, I reckon it would be equally amazing to visit in daylight or early evening.
I’d recommend driving to the location mentioned on Google Maps (marked as “Chirag-Chimera Picnic Area”) to park, before beginning the marked trail up to the flames (the hike is meant to be less than 30 minutes). The alternative is a wilder, un-signposted and frankly stressful hour-long hike on a tiny trail over the mountain from the other side (the trail starts near “Zumrut Cirali Otel”, opposite which there is space for parking). However, if you did visit in the daytime and were prepared for this hike, then perhaps you could make more of a trip of it with this alternative route (we were not prepared, and visited in the pitch black, hence my warning!). If you go in the evening/night, be sure to bring headtorches at a minimum.
Day 8 – Antalya and onwards to Pamukkale
This day is effectively a road-tripping day with several interesting stops along the way, and finishing by the evening in the town of Pamukkale, ready for tomorrow’s adventure. There are loads of beautiful sites along this route and you could stretch it out for longer if you wanted.
Option: Cable car/hike up Olympus Mountain
Why go?
This was initially on my plan for this trip, and whilst we didn’t even up doing it I wanted to include it as an option anyway. Olympus Mountain (Tahtali) is a beautiful green forested mountain reaching heights of 2365 m, towering over the small coastal towns and Cirali.
Need to know
The hiking route can be found online and starts from Beycik. The round trip is reported to be up to 6-8 hours.
The cable car (Olympos Teleferik) is approximately 45 minutes’ drive from Cirali. The cost is $44/adult for a return trip. Opening times are 09:30-18:30 Mon-Sun.
Option: Goynuk Canyon
Why go?
This is a pretty gorge located inside the Beydaglari Coastal National Park. The river running through has crystal clear blue waters. It calls itself an “adventure park” with the possibility of ziplining and canyoning, although there is also a short hiking route.
Need to know
Goynuk Canyon is approximately 55 minutes’ drive from Cirali. The last 5 km or so is on small dirt tracks and it can look like you’re driving to the middle of nowhere. However, there is a large carpark at the end and ramshackle buildings announcing it as the adventure park.
There is a small fee for entrance to the national park, even just for hiking. The park is open 09:00-17:30 Mon-Sun.
Antalya Archaeological Museum
Why go?
This is a great museum full of Roman and Greek history. There are many artefacts and large stone statues.
Need to know
The museum is approximately 45 minutes’ drive from Goynuk Canyon. There is a big free carpark out the front.
Entrance to the museum is: 50 TL. It is included in the Turkey Museum Pass.
Opening times: 08:30-20:00 Mon-Sun.
Termessos Ruins
Why go?
These ruins are amazing, and don’t seem to be very well-known to tourists. The site is huge, with loads of ruins to explore literally poking out from vines and trees. It is based on a mountain, giving it a mystical feel. We went in drizzling rain and were the only people there, which was amazing. It is well worth a visit. Highlights include the huge amphitheatre and many sarcophagi.
Need to know
The ruins are approximately 40 minutes’ drive from Antalya Archaeology Museum. Note that once you’ve arrived and gone through the entrance gate, there is another 10 km of winding, narrow road up the mountainside. The carpark at the end is a large dirt lot.
From the carpark, it is 10-15 minutes’ walk up to the start of the site; there are many winding routes to explore around. I’d recommend giving yourself a few hours for this.
The cost is 40 TL/adult (note they only accepted cash). I believe this site is also included in the Turkey Museum Pass.
Opening times: officially 08:30-17:00, but they stayed open to 18:00 when we visited.
Driving to Pamukkale
The drive from Termessos to Pamukkale is approximately 2h 50 minutes, but the roads are straightforward and nice to drive on. By the time you arrive at Pamukkale it is likely late in the day, so food and check-in is all that is required!
Day 9 – Pamukkale
Pamukkale Travertines and Hierapolis
Why go?
The travertines of Pamukkale have been made famous by social media. They are made from the salts of spring water that bubbles up at the top, where at ancient city stands. The hardened white salts became the edges of hundreds of pools cascading down the hillside, some filled with chalky blue water, creating an otherworldly image. To add to the appeal, this still-cascading water is from a hot spring, making you feel like wading in a bath. It’s an amazing experience. Once at the top, included in your entrance ticket is also the ancient city of Hierapolis. This huge site features many amazing ruins, the best of which are large cemeteries and a temple near the “entrance to the underworld” – a pool made at a cave entrance from where the hot spring flows. Here there was also the escape of carbon dioxide, which built up to such levels that animals and people brought down to the pool at the entrance to “Hell” would be asphyxiated and sacrificed to the gods.
Need to know
There are multiple entrances to this site, and often the north or south gates are mentioned. However, if staying in the town of Pamukkale, then I recommend the middle gate (labelled “Pamukkale Town Entrance – Ticket Office” on Google Maps). Not only is this gate a mere 10-15 minute walk from the centre of Pamukkale (where there is on-street parking for free), but it also means that you return to the centre of Pamukkale (eg, for lunch) instead of either end (at the North/South gates) which are closer to an hour’s walk from Pamukkale.
The benefits of staying in Pamukkale and using this entrance is also that the tourist tours start from either the north or south gates, which are both perhaps 20-30 minutes’ walk to the travertines. If you are staying in the town, you can walk up to the middle gate for opening time, and therefore have the travertines to yourself. As soon as the tour groups arrive, the vibe is very different!
Note that you need to remove your shoes for walking on the travertines, so as not to damage the salt deposits. You can wear socks, but remember to bring a dry pair! Also remember that if you walk down the travertines, you’ll have to walk back up (or vice versa). The hot water runs over your feet as you walk in places, and you are also allowed to wade in the pools, so wearing something you can roll up or remove as you explore is great. Finally – the salt deposits are varying levels of eroded and naturally filed down from walking and the elements. That means there are some fairly sharp and abrasive sections which can be painful on your water-softened feet!
Ticket cost: a ticket for Pamukkale and Hierapolis costs 400 TL/adult. However, you can also buy a ticket that combines Pamukkale, Hierapolis, and a further site called Laodicea, which is recommended if you’re following this itinerary. The combo ticket costs 500 TL/adult. The tickets are included in the Turkey Museum Pass.
Opening times: 08:00-20:00 Mon-Sun (middle gate).
The ancient city of Laodicea
Why go?
This is a large site, still undergoing some excavations. Its position on the hill tops give amazing views for miles; you can even see the white shine of Pamukkale’s travertines in the distance. There is a lot to explore but it is not a busy site. There’s some impressive ruins making it worth the trip.
Need to know
It’s approximately a 15-minute drive from Pamukkale.
Entrance is included in the ticket for Pamukkale/Hierapolis (if you bought the combo ticket mentioned above). As mentioned, it’s part of the Turkey Museum Pass.
Opening times: 09:00-18:00 Mon-Sun.
Drive to Selcuk
The final part of the day is the drive to Selcuk, the small town close to the Ancient City of Ephesus, arriving in the evening ready for dinner and check-in once again. The drive takes approximately 2h 50 minutes. Selcuk is a strange little town that appears to be based around a large road and features several small restaurants/shops in the centre of town.
Day 10 – The Ancient City of Ephesus (and going home)
The Ancient City of Ephesus
Why go?
Perhaps one of the most famous tourist attractions in Turkey is this UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city is famous for the nearby Temple of Artemis, designated one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Note that it’s nearby – the city of Ephesus itself is not one of the seven wonders. However, it is full of amazing photogenic ruins and is an extremely popular attraction.
Need to know
I’d recommend arriving as the gates open for this site. Once in, make a beeline for famous sites such as the Library of Celsus and the amphitheatre. It is magical to be alone there in the calm before the storm (of tourists). The whole site is fairly large and takes several hours to explore properly, during which it will become extremely crowded.
The terraced houses are an optional extra you pay for when in Ephesus, and I recommend splashing out. They are amazingly excavated over a huge area, with beautiful mosaics and frescoes remaining.
The ticket costs 400 TL/adult, with the terraced houses costing an additional 170 TL. Once again, this attraction is covered by the Turkey Museum Pass.
The Temple of Artemis
Why go?
How often is it you get to visit one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, especially one that is still standing? “Standing” may be pushing it; only a single column remains upright, and usually topped with the giant nest of a white stork, but it is worth a quick view regardless.
Need to know
The temple is located inconspicuously off of the main road (D515) heading into Selcuk from the coast. There is a small brown tourist signpost announcing its presence, but nothing on the scale of the Ephesus. After few hundred metres’ drive alone a basic road you’ll reach the small dirt lot carpark (free). Best to keep an eye on your possessions here as it is more “off the beaten track”.
The “temple” is immediately obvious – a pillar in an overgrown field – but it is majestic all the same. There is no entrance fee nor opening times.
Optional: Pamucak Beach
Why go?
If you’ve time to kill before your afternoon flight, Pamucak Beach may be worth a quick visit. However, in all honesty it is not the nicest beach, with some litter and questionable smells from the sea. A nap in the sun can be enjoyable though.
Need to know
The beach is approximately 10 minutes’ drive from Selcuk. There’s a small parking area right by the beach.
Drive to Izmir
The drive to Izmir airport is approximately 1 hour from Selcuk. Izmir seems a fairly industrial city, and the airport, although small, requires additional checks for UK passport holders, so be sure to factor in additional time. The return of the car hire is also quite confusing – for example, the company we hired through requested we return the car to the domestic departure terminal (despite our international flight).
This concludes my 10-day jam-packed itinerary covering all the Turkish classics! I hope you have enjoyed or at least gathered some inspiration to use when planning your own trip.