Why go?

Peru has a varied landscape, from the Amazon rainforest in the north to the Andes mountains further south. The region around Cusco, including the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu, is doubtless most famous, with Machu Picchu itself (a UNESCO world heritage site and one of the seven new wonders of the world) attracting over 1.5 million tourists a year! There are many archaeological sites dating back to the Incan Empire, making it a fascinating place full of culture, history, and natural beauty.

Need to know

How to get to Cusco

Generally, you will need to fly via Lima (the capital of Peru). In Lima, it is a self-transfer scenario, meaning you collect any checked bags after immigration and then you must re-check them back in at the check-in desk for your connecting flight. Sometimes this looks like you’re leaving the airport altogether, as the signs for connections aren’t always clear. Bear in mind that depending on whether you’re inbound or outbound, you’ll be heading for domestic or international flights respectively. I’d recommend taking an evening flight if possible, so that you arrive in the morning of Day 1 in this itinerary.

When to go

There are two seasons – the rainy season and the dry season. The rainy season runs from November to April, and the dry from May to October. Peak tourist season is May-August. Aside from the differences in rainfall that give the seasons their name, the general temperatures in Cusco don’t vary much throughout the year. Personally, I’d recommend the shoulder season (March-April, or September-October), where the weather is mixed but the crowds are lower. As an added bonus, in April the springtime flowers are out! Note however that variations in altitude throughout the trip affect the temperatures too!

Health and safety

Altitude: Cusco (often used as a base for exploring the region) is at 3,399 m above sea level. Depending on where you’re used to, this kind of altitude can take a few days of getting used to. It’s often recommended you stay in Cusco for 2 days prior to increasing altitude or undertaking any full-on energetic days (big hikes/Inca Trail). Altitude sickness can be very serious, and even if it is minor it isn’t worth ruining your holiday over spending an extra day or two taking it easy. Common day trips (some of which I’ve included in this itinerary) are at higher altitudes (Humantay Lake is at 4,200 m, and Rainbow Mountain is 5,200 m). The elevation of the Inca Trail varies over the days – usually day 2 involves passing the highest point (Dead Woman’s Pass, at 4,215 m); the actual site of Machu Picchu is much lower at 2,430 m. If you’re in the UK you can get altitude tablets on prescription from Boots Online if required.

Sunburn: It’s not the first thing you think of, what with average temperatures of around 20°C, but Cusco’s 3,400 m elevation means that the sun’s UV rays are approximately twice as powerful as they are at sea level. I’d recommend wearing high-factor sunscreen on even cloudy days, to be safe. We learnt this the hard way!

Food safety/hygiene: The tap water isn’t safe to drink in Cusco, so you should buy bottled water. However, it’s worth considering how this can also affect what you eat – be mindful of salads or fruits which may have been washed with tap water, or even ice cubes made with tap water in your drinks. As a general rule for other foods, make sure your food is freshly cooked and/or served very hot to reduce the risk of food poisoning.

Political protests: As of December 2022, there have been political protests in Peru, some violent and unfortunately involving deaths. In early 2023, this escalated and Machu Picchu was closed, stranding hundreds of tourists. The train to Machu Picchu was also affected. However, it was reopened after a month and when we visited in April, we personally did not see or hear of any protests in the Cusco region. However, when planning a trip you should check the latest news and information, for example on the gov.uk website.

National/religious holidays

Although we visited during Santa Semana (Easter week), tourist sites did not appear to be affected, with the exception of Cusco Cathedral which was closed at certain times towards the end of the week. It’s worth bearing these holidays in mind when planning, however, especially as small tourist sites or shops may close early or have different hours.